Coolum Beach, QLD – Our New Home

18 July 2017

Pic 2017-0716 Mount Coolum Hike (31)

We have made Coolum Beach our new home for the next 5 months. After living in Brisbane hotels for our first two weeks and investigating the areas between Sunshine Coast to the north and Gold Coast to the south, we decided Coolum Beach was the best fit for our family. It provides a relaxed, safe, family friendly atmosphere and affordable access to the beach lifestyle. Our apartment has several swimming pools and a small gym. It is a short walk to all the basics, including the beach, parks, restaurants, a grocery store, a pharmacy, the library and community center, and soccer fields. We even belong to the local surf club.

Coolum Beach is part of a collection of seaside communities that make up the Sunshine Coast. It is anchored by the town of Maroochydore which is about a 20 minute drive south but maybe more known nationally for Noosa on the north end, also known as the “Relaxation Capital” of Australia. Coolum and Peregian Beaches stretch about 1 mile long. On the south end of Coolum there are some rocky areas that create 3 additional small sandy bays. There are no high-rises and the locals are fighting to maintain this low-rise, low-key vibe.

Brisbane, a fantastic city, serves as the business hub and capital of Queensland. It was too much city and not enough beach for us. Gold Coast is a popular tourist area with several theme parks and long wide sandy beaches, such as the famed Surfer’s Paradise. The beach side feels like Ft. Lauderdale and the inland side feels more like Orlando. We are excited to spend more time visiting in the near future but it was not the atmosphere we were looking to live.

We are still settling into our new place but are making progress. The kids are on a regular home school schedule. We try to do something each afternoon whether it is investigating a new town, taking long walks, or just going to the beach.

A few days ago we made the trek on foot from our apartment to the top of Mount Coolum and back, about 14 km (8 1/2 miles), some quite steep.  From the top there are nice views from Peregian to Maroochydore on the east and the Glass Mountain Range to the west.  Cole spotted our first kangaroo in the wild.

 

Posted in Australia, Queensland, Sunshine Coast | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Kangaroos

9 July 2017

Pic 2017-0709 Australia Zoo (196)

Kangaroo pictures from the Australia Zoo:

Posted in Australia, Queensland, Sunshine Coast | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Koalas

9 July 2017

Pic 2017-0709 Australia Zoo (61) edit

Pictures of the Koalas from our day at the Australia Zoo.

 

Posted in Australia, Queensland, Sunshine Coast | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Australia Zoo

9 July 2017

Pic 2017-0709 Australia Zoo (291) edit

Crikey, the Australia Zoo is fantastic! Made famous by the Crocodile Hunter, Steve Irwin and his family, the zoo concentrates on animals from Australia but does have some exhibits from around the world. I can say with confidence that this is a must visit for anyone interested in all the uniquely Aussie wildlife. You can hold and pet koalas! You can pet and roam freely amongst kangaroos! We have been to zoos with much larger collections and nicer facilities, but none approach the interaction you have with the animals. The entire family agreed this was clearly the highlight of our trip so far.

Our experience was made even more special because we got to spend it with one of my wife’s childhood friends and her family, fantastic folks who have lived in Oz on and off for several years. They just happened to be on holiday in Sunshine Coast this week.

Pic 2017-0709 Australia Zoo (5) edit

Steve Irwin and his family statue

Crocs!

Posted in Australia, Queensland, Sunshine Coast | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Brisbane, QLD – Part 2

8 July 2017

Pic 2017-0708 Brisbane 03 Mt Coot tha (5)

View from Mount Coot-tha Lookout

Various pictures throughout the city

Eat Street area of the North Bank

Apparently “Fosters” is not Australian for “beer”.  XXXX Gold is a top seller in Oz.

Posted in Australia, Brisbane, Queensland | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Brisbane, QLD – Part 1

8 July 2017

brisbane-sign 1 Blog Edit

Brisbane is the State of Queensland’s capital and Australia’s third largest city behind Sydney and Melbourne. It is growing fast. The skyline’s numerous construction cranes almost overshadow the highrises overlooking the Brisbane River. It is the center of business located between Gold Coast, Australia’s sixth largest city, to the south and Sunshine Coast, ninth largest, to the north, both popular tourist areas.

This is the area we plan to live for the first half of our year abroad. Because Australia is in the Southern Hemisphere, their seasons are opposite those we are used to in the States. Within Australia Brisbane is the northern-most large city and as a result its weather remains temperate during the winter months, similar to Florida.

We have enjoyed exploring the coastal areas of Brisbane, Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast, both as tourists and perspective renters. Ultimately we decided to live north of the city but we have nothing negative to report so far. We will be spending more time getting to know the city in the upcoming months as well as using Brisbane Airport as a travel hub.

South Bank’s Brisbane Sign and the Wheel of Brisbane

City Skyline and Bridges

Queensland Museum and Queensland Museum of Art

Murals can be found throughout the city

Posted in Australia, Brisbane, Queensland | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Mobile Phones

7 July 2017

iPhone SE

While first considering a move overseas, I started to study the logistics. Money, travel visas, lodging, transportation, and schools were the obvious top priorities. Once we got comfortable with those and decided to do it, I started to study the finer details.

Mobile phones are crucial in the process of getting established – maps, internet access, camera, email, texting, calendar, contacts, clock, calculator, unit conversions, and games for the kids… I even heard you can use it to make calls – so we needed to get this right.

My wife and I had iPhones on Verizon Wireless. We were paying about $160/month. When we travelled in Ireland and the U.K. last year, we bought international coverage for $40/phone which brought our bill to over $240/month. The service overseas was adequate at best. This was not going to work for a year of travel. With two children in a foreign country, two phones was not going to cut it either.

First, we decided that each family member must have a phone. Christmas shopping was easy this year but buying 4 new phones was not an inexpensive investment. Second, it was obvious we needed an Australian wireless provider.

All Phones Are Not Created Equal

It was disappointing to learn that the phones we bought through Verizon were almost useless. First, they were “locked” into the Verizon network. Without “unlocking” them, they could only be used on Verizon. We might have been able to unlock them either safely through Verizon, after meeting certain contractual requirements, or less safely using third party software. We did not bother because even our unlocked phones from Verizon were essentially worthless. They use the CDMA wireless standard. In the United States, there are two different wireless network standards. Verizon, Sprint and US Cellular use CDMA. AT&T, T-Mobile and the majority of the world use GSM.

Smart phones have SIM card slots. Unlocked phones allow you to change wireless providers by simply changing the SIM cards, ideal for international travel. Based on our desire to travel abroad now and in the future, we decided we wanted unlocked GSM phones.

It seemed simple enough except we did not want to lock into another U.S. provider contract, we’d be leaving in 6 months. What to do?

iPhones are more expensive in Australia, even taking into consideration the favorable exchange rate. More importantly, not all iPhones are created equal. Another revelation in my research was an iPhone bought in the U.S. is not the same as one purchased in Australia, they have different frequency bands.

Each wireless provider uses a variety of wavelength frequencies, often using multiple frequencies for each service band. For example, Telstra uses 900 MHz for their 2G service, 850 and 2100 MHz for 3G, and 5 different frequency bands for 4G/LTE service. To make it more confusing, some of the frequencies are used by multiple providers. For example, Telstra and Optus both use 5 frequency bands for their 4G/LTE service, 4 of the 5 are the same but 1 is unique. Ultimately if you buy your phone in the same country as the provider, then all this is academic. However, if you plan to take that phone to another region of the world, it could become important.

Why? Different regions of the world use different frequencies. The phones can only accommodate a limited number of frequencies; therefore phones produced for one market have a different collection of frequencies available than those produced for another market. We bought iPhone SE’s. They are produced in three different models, A1662 (United States), A1723 (Global), and A1724 (China). Apple would not sell us the Global or Chinese models on U.S. soil, although it appears third party vendors are circumventing them via eBay and other sites. Ultimately we decided to stick with U.S. models because while we want the flexibility of travel, most of our time would be spent in North America.

Why is this important? The unlocked GSM phones we bought in the States will work in Australia but they do not have all the frequencies available that the Aussie providers use. The higher number of frequency bands available should result in increased signal strength and coverage. In other words, my phone on an Aussie provider’s network might not have service where a phone purchased here would. Furthermore when selecting the provider, you should determine how many of the frequencies your phone has are actually used by each provider. The best network in the country might not provide your phone the best coverage. If coverage is important, you might want to consider buying phones in country or buying an additional emergency-only pre-paid “burner” phone.

Choices, Choices

Australia has four major wireless providers, Telstra, Optus, Virgin Mobile, and Vodophone. Virgin Mobile and Vodophone had such poor reviews, we did not seriously consider either. Telstra clearly has the best coverage and is the most popular, similar to Verizon in the States. Optus rates well and appears to be the obvious second choice, think AT&T. Our iPhone SE’s have 3 of the 5 frequencies used by Telstra and only 2 of 5 used by Optus, so you might think our choice was obvious. We went the other way. At the time we were looking, Telstra’s service was priced like they dominate the market and their plans lacked flexibility… a lot like Verizon. We signed up with Optus and are considering buying a Telstra burner for some of our Outback adventures. Time will tell if this was a good decision. So far we have been very happy with Optus in the population centers but we have not truly tested the open road.

If you are considering buying a phone in country, we noticed iPhones are significantly more expensive in Australia, even taking into consideration the exchange rate.

After all this planning, we ran into a road block. The wireless providers would not give us a 12-month contract, even if we pre-paid the entire contract amount, because we did not have a permanent address yet and we had no credit established in Australia. In the end, we signed up for a pre-paid plan that can be transitioned to a 12-month contract with more favorable terms after we find a place to live. We could have also continued to use our American phones on an international plan for the first month but we wanted access to much more mobile data than that would have provided within a reasonable budget. While the pre-paid plan was not ideal, it does give us the flexibility to easily switch providers.

Keeping Our Old Numbers

Our new Australian plans came with new Aussie phone numbers. I wanted to find a way to retain our old American phone numbers while we were gone; we’ve had them for years. Our old Verizon plan was cost prohibitive to keep active. They offered options for short periods but nothing that would work for our situation. Since we planned to ditch our old Verizon phones anyway, it all turned out for the better.

We cancelled our Verizon phones once the 2-year contract was over and transferred our phone numbers to a pre-paid service, TracFone, that has both CDMA and GSM SIM cards available. They instruct you to use the GSM cards in all cases except for unlocked CDMA-only phones; however, there was nothing preventing us from inserting the CDMA SIM card into our new unlocked CDMA/GSM phones. This allowed us to continue using the Verizon network reliability we were accustomed and avoid a contract. TracFone has an option to purchase a relatively inexpensive 365-day plan that keeps our numbers active while we are gone and provides immediate service once we return back to the United States.

The added advantage we did not plan was the cost. The pre-paid plans allowed us to double the number of phones from 2 to 4 and spend less than half what we were spending on Verizon. Even taking into consideration the cost of our old phones that were included in our monthly contract, our monthly cost dropped significantly. It has been the best of both worlds, no contract, lower cost, and great coverage. We will maintain this service when we return.

If you are travelling for a short period of time, it is likely the added cost of an international plan and heavy use of free WiFi will be easiest; however if you are travelling for an extended period I’d consider a no contract, SIM-only pre-paid plan. And do yourself a favor, whether travelling or not, and ditch those provider locked phones!

For more information on the iPhone SE and a general understanding of these issues, everymac.com wrote a helpful article.  For more about Australian wireless networks, check out ausdroid.net.

Happy travels.

 

26 July 2017 Update

Mobile phones and internet connectivity and speed have been a real problem in our first month in Oz. By U.S. standards, Australia’s infrastructure is mediocre to poor. Moving from Brisbane to Coolum Beach – still in the heart of a populated area – we saw a significant drop-off. We have spent more time on a 3G service the last 3 weeks as we had in past 5 years in the U.S. Making it more expensive is their identification and credit requirements which have forced us into pre-paid SIM card plans and a mobile broadband plan. Unable to get a wired connection with unlimited data has been a real downer. So as if getting slower speed internet and less reliable phone coverage for double the cost isn’t awesome enough, we have to deal with Telstra, or as I call them, the Evil Empire.

Telstra is the leading provider of mobile phone, cable TV, and internet services in Australia. They started as a government agency that eventually was privatized so I assume this is how they got a leg up on the competition.

This is not just me complaining. Each Aussie I met has rolled their eyes or worse when Telstra was mentioned. The best piece of advice I have received since landing here was “pack your patience” before heading to visit them. During my 5 day ordeal to get service – I won’t bore you with the details – I had plenty of time at their various locations to hear the stories of other frustrated customers. One lady demanded they fetch her old SIM card out of the rubbish so she could go back to her old mobile phone provider. You just need to stand outside one of their locations to see the faces of people leaving. No one is smiling. No one appears excited they just got a new phone, or faster internet, or new cable TV channels… they just look disappointed and tired.

So you might ask, if they are so bad why did you leave Optus, the second leading provider? While I have read on-line that Optus receives quite a few complaints as well, I had a very good experience with them, until we left Brisbane that is. We simply could not get reliable phone or internet at our apartment.

The simple truth seems to be that Telstra is the best of a bad lot. If they had a competitor that could match their mobile network, they’d have to get much better or go out of business. For us, it is an inconvenience. For our friends and allies who have to live with this, my condolences.

Posted in Australia, Travel Advice | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Vegemite!

3 July 2017

Pic 2017-0628 Chermside QLD blog edits (7)

In my effort to experience everything stereotypically Australian, vegemite was high on my list. I went in with an open mind hoping I would like it. I heard it was an acquired taste, but that might be the understatement of the century. In summary, it’s what I imagine poop tastes like. The smell is not far from it either. How anyone eats this stuff is completely beyond me.

Posted in Australia | Tagged | Leave a comment

First Impressions

3 July 2017

An entire country and its culture cannot be understood in a week, but we have certainly noticed some similarities and differences.

Living in the American Southeast, folks are generally friendlier than anywhere else in the country. Travelling extensively throughout Canada, I can say our neighbors to the north are particularly friendly. However I’m not sure I’ve been anywhere with such friendly and accommodating people than Oz. It started in the Sydney airport where strangers practically adopted us and made sure we got to our flight intact. Everyone has been extremely polite and friendly.

From the time we walked outside the Brisbane airport I’ve felt like I stepped into an alternate universe. At first most things looked the same but with a closer look, small differences became apparent.

We own a Toyota Highlander so we decided to rent one for the first month, except they call it a Kluger, and they put the steering wheel on the wrong side. The license plate said ‘Queensland – Sunshine State’; I thought Florida was the sunshine state? Luckily it was late and the roads where largely empty when we made our way from the airport to our hotel. I can’t tell you how many times I turned on the windshield wipers instead of the turn signal. Without a GPS or a good map, it was a small miracle we made it.

We purposely reserved a hotel within walking distance of a shopping center so we could gear up before adventuring out.

Aussie Target looks like a Target, but it’s not. It’s more like Kmart. Kmart looks like Kmart, but it’s not. It’s more like Target. Big W is good too, but it’s not Walmart. Walmart does not exist here, they’re probably better off. Big W is actually a spin-off of Woolworths, but not the original American five and dime F. W. Woolworths. Aussie Woolworths is a grocery store chain. Foot Locker, which is the old American Woolworths, is here too. They don’t have Kohl’s, but they do have Cole’s. It’s a major grocery store chain. They do have TJ Maxx, but they’re called TK Maxx. To my excitement Blockbusters still exist here. I haven’t seen one of those in years. Now I just need a DVD player.

Pic 2017-0628 Chermside QLD blog edits (4) - Copy

Grocery shopping has been fun. It looked a lot like it did in the U.K. Staples such as mac & cheese and pretzels could only be found in the international food aisle and they are expensive. Certain items are priced similar as in the United States but most are far more expensive. This Pittsburgh boy was glad to see plenty of Heinz products on the shelves. Yellow mustard is “American mustard” and we cannot find brown mustard. If you ask for it in a restaurant, prepare yourself for honey mustard.

Fast food chains are familiar. McDonalds, Subway, KFC, Hungry Jacks (Burger King), Dominos, and Pizza Hut are common. Mexican food is available although we haven’t been impressed yet. Asian food appears to be plentiful however we haven’t tried it.

Many things are the same but the differences have been fun so far.

Posted in Australia | Tagged | Leave a comment

Arrival

26 – 28 June 2017

australian20flag

The flight from Honolulu to Sydney was about 10 1/2 hours, however crossing the International Date Line we travelled into the future and lost a day on the calendar. The 4 hour layover in Sydney actually worked well as it took some time to go through customs, claim our luggage, take the train from Sydney’s International Airport to their Domestic Airport, check-in to the domestic flight, go through security, and get some dinner. The flight to Brisbane was only 1 1/2 hours.

We were a little concerned when we landed after 8 PM and needed to get to our hotel in nearby Chermside by 10 PM, but all went well and we made it on time. Driving on the left without a map or GPS was a bit challenging, more about that later.

Wednesday we woke up still a bit groggy after a short night’s sleep and wondered ‘now what?’.

We had a few strategic goals to achieve on our first full day all of which we eventually achieved.

  • Get new mobile phone SIM-card plans
  • Buy a GPS navigation system
  • Test our bank and credit cards to make sure they work
  • Get basic supplies

Next, find a place to live.

Posted in Australia | Tagged | 1 Comment